SINGAPORE

I had to go to Singapore to try to get a new Indonesian visa, which proved not possible in my case for various preventable reasons... Anyway I had low expectations about Singapore because of all the things I've heard (i.e. crimeless, ultra-modern, clean, authoritarian, etc) but it turned out to be an amazing place in many ways and I will never again write a place off that I have never been based on things I've heard (except maybe Cleveland?)... I stayed with 2 cyclists, Chuen and Yann, who are both really cool Singaporean guys who are way into cycling...
Here are some noteworthy things I learned about Singapore:

-Cars over 10 years old are illegal.
-There is virtually no poverty, and a very strong economy.
-Singapore is full of stunningly beautiful Chinese and Indian women.
-Of all the subway systems I've ever been on, Singapore's is probably the easiest and most efficient.
-Little India kicks ass.
-Singapore is made up mostly of Chinese, Indian, and Malay and has a very interesting mix of cultures, languages, and religions.
-If you get caught with drugs you get hanged.
-When it comes to consumerism Singapore is in a league of her own.
-Singaporeans LOVE their electronics, I was stared at on the train while reading a book as though I was listening to an 8 track player...

BACK ON THE ROAD! crossing Java

Finally hit the road with a general plan of cycling for the next 4 or 5 months across Java and Sumatera, then crossing to mainland Asia at a seaport in West Malaysia.. From there heading north through Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia where I plan to look for work (I should be completely out of money by then!!)

Although I really don't know what to expect from any of these upcoming countries, I'm most excited about Laos, Vietnam, and China.. Also very excited to finally get to Buddhist countries, as it is probably the religion that interests me the most and I'm looking forward to studying all the variations, history, and philosophy...

The first 9 days after leaving Surabaya got me about 400k to Jogjakarta in Central Java. The slow pace was due to the fact that I spent four days in a city called Blitar with my new family, who are all such such incredible people, and also I got sick from cold nights at higher elevations. Aside from that, Java is amazingly beautiful and full of very friendly people. The last 8 months of learning Indonesian (and a little Javanese) are really paying off because I can completely communicate with everyone and really get to know them. Within the first 10 minutes of entering any village I will surely already have people offering me to sleep in their homes, and the kindness and genuineness of Indonesian people still never seizes to amaze me.

I am currently en route to Singapore so that I can get a new Indonesian Visa and re-enter... Next week I will return to Jogjakarta and repair my bike (I got hit by a motorbike), then continue towards west Java and Sumatera...

Leaving East Java

Dear surabaya,
Much love, you will be missed...
Yours truly,
M

THE 5 THINGS I'LL MISS MOST ABOUT MY VILLAGE IN MADURA...

I returned to Planggiran, Madura which is the village that I have spent the most time in in Indonesia visiting at least four times for a total of more than 2 months. I became very close with my family and my Umi (Arabic for mother), who is in her seventies. I took this opportunity as my last visit before leaving this part of Indonesia for good, to reflect on all that the village has taught me and here are the 5 things that I will miss most about Planggiran, Madura:

THING #5 THE WATER

I've always been a big fan of water. That might sound like a completely moronic statement because we all need water to survive (every species on earth maybe?), but I think a lot of people take the water they drink for granted. All water is not created equal and the water in New York, New Zealand, New Mexico, Borneo and Madura all taste completely different. The water in this village is special to me for many reasons, mainly because it is drank straight out of the community well in the village's center. Naturally filtered rain water that showers chemical-less crops (no pesticides here) it has an earthy mineral taste and comes out of the ground cold and clear. On a hot day cycling in the equatorial sun I literally have 'wet dreams' of pulling up to this well and lustfully indulging in a drawn bucket of this chilled liquid...BLISS!

THING #4 THE LIFESTYLE

The average income in the village is well under a dollar a day and almost all of the people work in the fields farming things like various beans, corn, and rice in the wet season. But don't be fooled by the lack of money (and desire for an abundance of it), air conditioners, washing machines, televisions, commercial businesses, iphones, etc because these things are not desired here and DEFINITELY would not improve the quality of life. Life is lived as it has been for countless generations; that is people work the land for about 4 hours a day, and spend the rest of the time keeping house, tending to cattle, and being with family. This lifestyle has little draw backs as far as I can see and gives way to a vibrant social life and a sense of community and bond that seems lost on many countries (and most cities). If it aint broke then don't fix it.

THING #3 THE TRANQUILITY

This village is much more to me than just a place that I like to come and visit. To me it helps me clear and calm my mind and it's no accident that I often seek solitude here when I have something important on my mind, or a decision to make. Things like clocks and calenders don't seem to exist here and when not sleeping, eating, or walking around talking with people, I can be found on my back with my eye closed listening to the breeze create slow creaks from the huge bamboo trees and the birds and insects doing what they do. Smells of burning wood followed by the aromatic foods that the fires are cooking fill the air around dawn, dusk and midday and quiet solitude is plentiful. Focusing on any one or combination of sensory numbing surroundings never fails to put my mind in very calm and relaxed state where things like anger, confusion, sadness, impatience, and frustration seem as far away as the city I pedaled out of a year and half ago.

THING #2 THE BEAUTY

The beauty of the village is astonishing, there is no litter or overcrowding and, during the rainy season, everything is lush green and vibrant; Large banana trees, sprawling rice fields, beautiful skyscapes... Picturesque is the only word that describes it and the people must think I'm crazy for constantly taking photos of things that to them, are very normal.

THING #1 THE PEOPLE!

The village is full of the some of the nicest most humble people that I've come across. They are very rich in culture and tradition and the quality of life here is as high or higher than anywhere else I've been. It is impossible to walk past anyone without a smile and polite greeting which re-establishes my faith in humanity. There is no such thing as crime and any problems or burdens someone might have are shared with the entire community, creating an overwhelming sense of belonging. Laughing and playing children are everywhere and mothers can be seen openly nursing their young. The entire population is very strict Muslim and sins against the Koran are unbelievably rare. I was corrected for describing the people as 'tolerant' of other religions and cultures because to be 'tolerant' implies that you 'put up' with the beliefs of others when the correct word to describe the people here is 'acceptance'. Even though I am not of the same faith as them (or any other faith!) they nevertheless have treated me as equal in every sense of the word from the first time I came to the village. After all, if there is one thing that I've learned it is that being judgmental of others and thinking you know everything (the opposite of 'acceptance') is the root of all stupidity.