BROOKLYN TO BROOKLYN: China 6: Nei Mongol (Inner Mongolia)

Heading east across the desert of Inner Mongolia I noticed several things: There are lots of factories; The people aren't typical Han Chinese; There is Marijuana growing EVERYWHERE... Although the daytime temperature is comfortable, I had some really dreary nights in my hammock in the freezing cold. At one point I was convinced that both of my feet had frostbite due to a very painful numb burn on both of my heels.

Inner Mongolia

I followed the yellow river across most of the desert

Sunset in the middle of nowhere

These round igloo-like structures are where one obtains food

Some sheep enjoying the fresh air

Smog

I was curious as to whether or not the people of Inner Mongolia had any idea that they were surrounded by marijuana so I asked a guy walking on the side of the road: "Dama?" I said (Chinese for pot) pointing at the plants. "Bu shi!" he said surprised (No way!), and it was obvious that he had no clue what it was. Maybe it's the capitalist mentality that I have ingrained in my mind, but I can't help but wonder what would happen if only some of these very poor villagers knew that they were surrounded by a cash crop. All they would need to do is plant some of the seeds in the spring, then kill the male plants before they release their pollen, wait a couple months, and harvest the seedless -extremely potent- females and somehow get their product to a city. They could become millionaires, in Chinese currency anyway... (3 grams of pot sold for 500 rmb in Xi'an! (nearly US$100!)).. Click here for a great documentary about marijuana.

Wild Sativas

A lonely, unharvested, lady feeling depressed and under appreciated

Big girls like this one line mile after mile of Hwy 110

Cars and people pass by unaware

I spent a night in a guesthouse in a small village in the western part of the province. On a cold night, sick of the freezing midnight temperatures (this was before I bought a sleeping bag), I coughed up $10 for a room. As I was eating dinner (eggplant and rice) a bunch of Chino-mongol guys came to my table, sat down and started pouring shots of rice wine. 3 hours later I was extremely drunk and one of the guys helped me up to my room. The bathroom had NO WATER whatsoever (in the desert) and in my drunkenness I somehow managed to make an ungodly mess of that poor room as my body tried to rid itself of the intoxicating substance in every way possible.

I woke up the next morning at 6 am with one of the worst hangovers I've ever had and in one of the foulest smelling rooms I've ever been in. I packed my things and tried to leave, ashamed of the condition I left the room in. But how could I clean it? There was no water! And the owner was the ring leader forcing me to drink 3 bottles of liquor! As I was getting on my bike and leaving a policeman drove up and waved for me to stop. "Oh shit," I thought, "not now." Ten minutes later I was seated at a table inside an empty room surrounded by no less than 8 cops who spoke no English. All I could smell was the very strong scent of marijuana coming out of the bag by my feet, probably a few ounces plus a whole plant that I hadn't trimmed yet. Even though I don't smoke cigarettes, I accepted one from an officer in attempt to mask the smell. I was shaking uncontrollably and I remember wondering if it was caused by nervousness or the hangover or both. The cops spent over an hour and a half dozen phone calls to figure out that my passport had a valid Chinese visa. I got on my bike and didn't stop or look back for 50k. wheeeeeew....

The contents of my bag while I was being grilled by Inner Mongolia's finest

Hohhot is the capital of Nei Mongol (pronounced Hu he hao te). I planned on spending 1 or 2 days here and ended up spending nearly a week. It was a very relaxing city and I spent my days reading in parks and eating lots of food.

Here are some photos of the food in Inner Mongolia:

A tortilla with egg stuffed with lettuce, various meat and strange sauces

On the street you can walk up and pull these hot skewers of meat, mushrooms, tofu, and lots of other things out of a boiling spicy broth

Sauteed eggplant with peppers and onions

Noodles, pork belly

'Muslim noodles' with beef and carrots

Fried eggplant and potato

The 3rd of September marked the 3 year anniversary since I left NYC. I celebrated by drinking German beer and eating one of my favorite 'comfort foods'; peanut butter and jelly.

I left Hohhot and made my way east towards the mountains near Beijing with the idea of taking a boat to Korea from one of China's port cities. I knew that I was near The Great Wall so I kept an eye out (not literally). Unfortunately I never crossed paths with the great wall, or even a good wall.