BROOKLYN TO BROOKLYN: China 3: Sichuan Province

After Guizhou I made my way northwest into Sichuan province which is the biggest province I've been to and I spent more than 20 days here. The only things I knew of Sichuan before I arrived was 'Sichuan peppercorns' which we used in kitchens in America, spicy food, and something about pandas...

Early morning in the mountains south of Luozhou

Morning mist so thick it leaves your clothes and skin dripping wet

After 20k I was cursing these 6" deep man-made potholes jackhammered into the road

A factory in the middle of nowhere

Rice and corn paddy

Lots of these little guys after the morning rain

"Is there anyone at the station that can speak any English? Somebody's gotta tell this guy that if we catch him on the highway one more time today we're gonna shoot him in the face."

A hammock in the woods, or as the mosquitoes call it, 'an all you can eat buffet'

beautiful landscapes nearing Chengdu

Through the mountains in the southeast part of the province there was a constant heavy mist that beads on your skin and makes your feet and hands very cold. It feels like rain as you pass under trees because the mist collects on the leaves then falls in large drops. One morning I was very cold and hungry and when I finally got to a village I saw a lone noodle shop ran by two old people who reminded me of the proprietors of a local Chinese restaurant in my hometown, which was where I got my first dish washing job.

I was shivering as they put in front of me an overflowing bowl of noodles, smoked pork, bokchoy-like vegetables, onions and chili in a boiling hot meaty broth. All of the factors came together (my hunger and cold state, the nostalgia of the nice owners, and the amazing bowl of noodles) to create one of the best meals I've ever had...

Cold mountain morning bliss

The time of the day I enjoy the most is between 6-9am, the road is quiet and peaceful and the air is cool and fresh. I spend this time pedalling along in an alert kind of daze staring at things around me, thinking about chapters of a book I read the night before, daydreaming about my girl in VN, or maybe wondering what sort of breakfast will be on offer in an upcoming village. There are two substances found in nature that exponentially enhance this part of the day and elevate it from 'amazing' to 'divine' - Coffee and Marijuana - neither of which seem to exist in China. In light of this unfortunate lack of neuro-enhancement, I have allowed myself to become temporarily addicted to green tea, which is very cheap and I brew it very strong in an old water bottle...

Local green tea strong enough to put down a horse, a few swigs and my day has officially begun

I got to Chengdu and stayed at a hostel for a week while I extended my visa (another $150) and fixed up my bike a bit. Chengdu is a massive city with lots of travelers, most of them seem to be trying to get into Tibet or in transit from the east. Like all the Chinese cities I've been in, Chengdu is extremely modern and practical, with little connection to it's very rich and lengthy history.

A girl wearing skull-and-crossbones overalls with a huge screen in the background projecting Chinese propaganda. I felt like I was in a bizarre scene from a George Orwell novel.

Downtown Chengdu

Public parks are lined with 'dating ads' which parents post for their kids, then other parents read them and call the number to arrange a meeting.

A man takes down a number from a dating ad.

People quietly wisp by on stealthy electric motorbikes

Two little girls take dead aim at a passerby and blast him with their bubble guns, this is about the extent of violence one can expect to find in a Chinese city

This young couple sat next to me in a restaurant one evening and I was inclined to take a photo because I've never seen a couple sit across from each other for an entire meal and never say a word or stop staring at their cellphones!

A rare building that appears to be more than 5 years old

The food in Sichuan is very spicy and the 'peppercorns' make your mouth feel very numb and tingly, which is nice at first, but I did get a little sick of the numbness every time I ate a meal. Overall it was a very good province for food.

Steamed dumplings are served in the 'steamer rack' for well under a dollar

"So a white chicken, a black chicken, and a Chinese chicken walk into a bar..."

I could definitely eat all of that in one go

The infamous Sichuan peppercorns

Markets are loaded with spices and chilies

A boy looks in as his father orders various kinds of pickled and fermented vegetables

Very spicy diced chicken (of course with lots of bones) and peanuts served with a 'black' beer

A great breakfast: A big bowl of spicy pork dumplings

Breakfasts in the countryside vary from village to village, but a version of this was very common in the northwest of the province: Spicy rice noodles with steamed pork buns for dipping in the broth, pretty amazing

Smoky pork noodle goodness

I had a brilliant idea, well at least I thought so at the time. Look at these 3 photos and see if you can guess what it was:
Hint: this region is said to be home to the 'Giant Panda'

Anyone who watched 'Winnie the pooh' growing up, as I did, knows that bears love honey. So, since the mountain road was lined with people making/selling fresh honey, I bought a small note's worth and tied it to my hammock with a loose lid with the idea that a Panda will come in the middle of the night, wake me up, and in exchange for my honey, will explain why there is no coffee/marijuana in China. Unfortunately the idea was a bust and only attracted a flying creature too small to be a butterfly, but too colorful to be a moth. After two nights-worth of attempts the honey began to find it's way into my morning tea

After Chengdu it was a 5-day ride northwest to the next province (Shaanxi), and it took me through some unbelievable scenic mountains and pine forests. Here are some photos from those 5 days: