BROOKLYN TO BROOKLYN: May 2012

I remember many years ago coming across a travel blog about food in Saigon while living in Chicago, long before this journey became reality, and for some reason I knew that I'd love Vietnam even though I knew nothing about it. So when I got to the Vietnam-Cambodia border, in may 2011, I already had a very positive outlook on the country I was about to spend a substantial amount of time in. At that time I spoke next to no vietnamese and I remember counting to 1000 while cycling to try to memorize the numbers. I crossed into Vietnam in the rain around 11am and almost immediately got a flat tire. I stopped along the shoulder of the busy highway and, before I could even get my wheel off, a group of middle-aged Vietnamese guys came out to the road and brought me into a small outdoor restaurant. I sat down with these 5 or 6 guys, completely unable to comunicate, and together we shared many different kinds of great food and I drank at least 7 or 8 beers (with ice of course). I tried to resist after a while because i still had some 70k to Saigon, but those guys wouldn't budge and forced me to eat and drink until we were all full and drunk. After that I sloppily patched my flat tire, tried my best to show my gratitude, as they wouldn't let me pay, and got back on the road... Already I was in love with VN.

I got to Saigon and immedietly reconnected with Charli, a very close friend from Indonesia (well we met in Indonesia but she is from England or Whales or something). At that time I was broke, homeless, unemployed, unable to communicate, and lost in a chaotic city. Charli, and others, helped me to get on my feet by helping me write a resume, teaching me how to tie a tie, re-training me to use an over-head hot water shower/proper toilet, and teaching me how to behave amongst 'civilised' people. For this I am forever grateful. At one point in time, (shortly before she left VN for her homeland where she planned to help underprivileged children with limited or no access to Iphone apps), Charli and I's relationship was on the brink of destruction after I 'allegedly' drank a bottle of rice wine/many beers and urinated all over her bedroom floor in the middle of the night, then proceeded to say uncharacteristically mean things and accuse her of 'attention seeking'. Although my version of this 'alleged' incident is quite different and involves me doing nothing but sleeping, we were able to come to terms the next day and, with a 'you have your story and I have mine' attitude, we managed to put the past behind us and preserve our lovely bond! .)

The first six months were spent teaching all day everyday at several schools (both private and public) throughout the city. I was highly motivated and maintained a very positive attitude during these long strenuous days and I managed to save over $10,000 by new years. After the new year things slowed down considerably and I began to work less and enjoy my life a lot more. It was around this time that I went to a party and laid eye on Vietnam's most beautiful woman (in the eye of this beholder anyway), and before I even met her I turned to my buddy Eric and said 'See the girl smiling in the colorful dress over there? I'm gonna marry that girl'. For my last 6 months in Saigon Àmy and I were inseperable and, had it not been for her, I'd have left Saigon much sooner.

Finally, after visits from my father and Muddy, a close friend from NYC, it was time to reluctantly say goodbye to Saigon, Àmy, all of my wonderful friends, and the beautiful life that I had made for myself there. Hands down the hardest place I had ever left in my life as Saigon is the first place I have ever lived in which I could see myself happily building a family and enjoying the rest of my life.

I love and miss you all so much...

Phở bò kho (pho noodles with braised beef, onions, herbs, carrots in a thick stew-like broth with chili, lime, and bread)

This was by far my favorite meal in Saigon, I must have eaten at least 60 bowls from Cô Dung!